Hvar is not very far away from Vis, but they couldn’t be more different. Sure, they have similar buildings and an Old Town, but Vis is chilled, laid back and quiet. Hvar is busy. The harbour is continuously buzzing with boats going in and out past the super yachts moored beside each other, all trying to outdo each other. Women wear stilettos on cobblestone streets and the men wear white linen button up shirts with no buttons done up. We were staying at the Green Lizard Backpackers; a few minutes walk from the Old Town, but a world away. Beanbags under the shade of a tree on hill with the sea breeze flowing in, it was brilliant. We only had one night, so we went exploring. It was again the hottest day so far, creeping towards 40°C in the sun as we walked the wrong long way towards the secluded Uvala Beach. It was quiet and beautiful, but we stupidly forgot to bring anything to swim in, so we wandered along the coastal path towards the harbour.
We were offered tours out to the Palkeni Islands. We had read that there were quite a few nudist beaches there, and with the image of the naked family eating lunch 24 hours ago still burnt into our retinas, we opted out. We wandered in the heat, past the different bays where everyone else had remembered swimwear until we stumbled upon a brilliant shaded bar overlooking the ocean called Bar Falko. We cooled down with an ice cold beer before wandering back to the harbour, where we sat on the wall watching the boats enjoying another cold beer.
The following morning we woke, put on our board shorts and wandered to the Old Town where we climbed the mountain to the Fort overlooking Hvar Harbour. It was tiring, but the view of the bay was incredible. Hot and sweaty, we ventured back down the mountain for a swim off the rocks, conveniently located next Bar Falko again for post-swim beverage. As we sat relaxing in the bar, we watched what would soon take the title of My-Yacht’s-Bigger-Than-Your-Yacht in Hvar harbour. It was called Imagine, and it was a massive 65.5 metres long and dwarfed every other sailor’s yachts (and egos). As we walked past, the side lifted up and two of the 15 staff on board rode out jet skis for the owners to frolic on.
We had booked the 6:15pm ferry to Korcula that evening and when we went to the ferry company to print the tickets, they said it was 7:15pm. They printed our ticket, which still said 6:15pm and shrugged and said, I don’t know. We didn’t want to miss our ferry, so we did what only could be done in this situation, we sat in a bar drinking a beer until it arrived (7:15pm)